A Guide to Isla Holbox
Less crowded and far less publicised than Tulum or Playa Del Carmen on Mexico’s Atlantic coast, Holbox is a two-hour drive and a 30-minute boat trip from the central hub of Cancun. Having been popular with Mexican holiday makers for a long time and even with an increased influx of visitors from across the globe, simple island life is still a possibility here.
It’s not as affordable as I initially thought it would be owing to the tourism boom and the resulting increase in competition for restaurant and local business owners. That said, the pace remains slow and local life still visible amongst the coming and goings of holidaymakers. One of the things I enjoyed about the combination of the local life and tourism on the island is that you feel like you’re supporting those living full time on the island.
Work starts early for most islanders; children walk the sandy streets to school every morning, fishermen launch their boats up the beaches and haul their catch into town and as many people appear to have multiple jobs, the same faces are seen regularly throughout the day and become familiar very quickly. Family run shops and restaurants are lively and construction is booming.
There’s not a whole lot to do here. It’s exactly the reason we chose it as home for two weeks. With nothing on the agenda but reading, listening to podcasts, napping and feasting, here’s a run down of my favourite spots around the island.
Food & Drink
A great air conditioned coffee spot championing locally grown handpicked beans, cold brew and handmade baked goods care of the passionate brothers who own it. There is usually decent wifi although everywhere on the island experiences sketchy coverage. It’s safe to say that Holbox is not the place to try and work remotely!
With two weeks on the island, it was nice to have somewhere to cook on the occasions we chose to dine in. Our tip is to visit the main local market near the school which is best to visit first thing before anything runs out. There is a good range of fruit and vegetables and fresh eggs can be snapped up for next to nothing. There’s also a few other shops around town selling fresh produce if you need it but options are limited as the day goes on and its rarely super fresh.
If you’re needing a juice fix then Tierra Mia just off the beach on the north side of the island boasts an array of great concoctions. There is also a decent bagel menu which means it makes for a great breakfast or lunch spot. But beware, they add and inordinate amount of sugar to the juices. Just something to be aware of if you’re looking for a ‘healthy’ option.
This is a good brekkie spot and easily doubles ups as a casual lunch place. The fresh pitta, Oaxaca cheese and tomato toasties became a quick favourite and gave us a break from the floury consistency of the corn tortillas.
This place is perhaps most famous for its lobster pizza which we tried and tested. Three times the price of other pizzas on the menu, it didn’t really live up to the hype for me. That said, it really is the best spot for wood-fired oven pizzas, sipping tequila and local beers all set to live music under the night sky. It’s a popular spot amongst visitors looking for a taco alternative and the shared tables, and all round good vibes make for a vibrant atmosphere.
This was our first stop for margaritas. We didn’t try the food here so can’t really comment on it but it looked good from across the salted rim of my cocktail glass!
Yes I said good sushi. We really were not expecting to have this as a culinary option but the fare was delicious and the sushi fresh. The lobster roll was a favourite!
This beach bar sits right where the sand bends to the west of the island, meaning it has epic uninterrupted views of the sunset. Grab a swing seat at the bar and keep the margaritas coming.
I would have loved to stay here but it wasn’t quite within budget. However I did have a good nose about and I did drop in on one of their daily yoga classes one morning. I was treated to a lovely Yin sequence with added essential oils with their in-house yoga instructor. They have a small pool in the centre of the property and a restaurant that looks out over their private section of the beach.
A short walk west on the northern beach side of the island, Coquitos is a small but intimate little beach bar serving up delicious Baja fish tacos well into the evening.
This quaint little restaurant sits just off the main square and is a one of those ‘great little finds’ that everybody seems to know about. They really only do one thing. Ceviche. There are a few other options but ceviche is really what they are known for. Grab a few dishes of blue fin tuna or the catch of the day and let the food do the talking.
Smoothie bowls and breakfast dishes so pretty you’ll struggle to resist taking a quick snap before you tuck in. Swing seats, palms and sandy floors make this a picturesque spot on the main street.
We went back here twice. It’s a great spot if you’re with a group who all want different things to eat. Designed with a street food vibe in mind, there are around eight restaurants with their own kitchens. You can choose from tacos, burgers, pizzas and vegan buddha bowls. Their bar has everything from beers to cocktails and you can choose from their communal tables or smaller spots for 2-4 people. It’s not a big space so make sure you get there early or be prepared to wait!
This became a second home for us during our stay. This spot can appear a little ‘European’ on first sight but the proximity to the water, the food on offer, the service delivered and the distance from the smelly beached seagrass further down the sand meant it became the best spot to spend the day and watch the sun set over the pier of an evening. Just look for the boat bar near the pier on the north side of the island.
Holbox’s answer to fine dining. At El Chapulim, there is no menu. Well, there is no fixed menu. The dishes are decided on the day by the chef based on the produce he has to hand. So having booked a table, we didn’t really know what we were letting ourself in for. On the night we sat down we were served …
Crispy crepe waffles
The street sellers that border the central square are there every night and offer up sweet and savoury treats from around 7pm until the early hours. One of our favourite street side delicacies were the crispy Nutella and banana waffle crepes gorged quickly and immediately en route back to our apartment.
Things to do
There’s only a few other things to keep you busy other than read, get massaged, walk and take dips but then that’s the beauty of Holbox. Depending on the time of year there are day trips to hidden spots and other islands not accessible any other way. There is also kayaking, paddle boarding and snorkelling. At low tide (it’s never very high) you can walk the length of the island along the sandbank that sits about 25 meters off the shore. If you’re lucky you might see flamingos feeding in their natural habitat.
Mayan massage on the beach
This is an absolute must! I had three massages in two weeks. It was such a lovely experience being rubbed al fresco with the sound of the waves ringing in your ears and the breeze kissing your face - HEAVEN!
We booked this with the incredible team at Holboxeno - their almost 24/7 online chat service was so easy to use and the price included pick up from our accomodation (even though we could have walked!)
The boat trip started with a jaunt up to Mosquito point, so named because the fisherman clean their big fish here and leave all the blood and guts in the water, which in turn attracts the mozzies. We took in Bird Island, walking along a rickety bridge and up to a tower that looked onto a small protected island home to lots of birds. We visited Yala Bulum cenote, a naturally formed pool for fresh water swimming and Passion Island, a tiny bushy outcrop that seemed to spring right from the sea. You would normally be able to walk around it and take a gander from a small lookout but we chose not to owing to the army of mosquitos and had taken to guarding it.
On our last day we decided to pay for a sun lounger on the beach. Big spenders I know. We were so sunned out we needed shade and comfort. We paid 300 pesos (about £12/$22) each for the day which gave us table service and access to their bathroom and on site showers and spread out for the day. We figured that wasn’t bad for an uninterrupted view of the sea from under a shady palm tree!