Ottawa

We set off from Toronto and headed north-east to Ottawa on what should have been a 4.5-hour train journey which was annoyingly delayed to a boredom-inducing 6.5 hours. Thankfully it was not a complete disaster thanks to the constant flow of free coffee and biscuits throughout the trip; thank you VIA Rail.

After a little research we decided to spend our two nights in an Airbnb in The Glebe neighbourhood. It had a local and low-key vibe; not super trendy but a few nicer shops and restaurants bespectacled the high street. It felt a bit ‘up and coming’ or maybe how a place feels when it’s off-season. A few people had told us that Ottawa is like Canberra in a lot of ways. Most of the ‘things to do’ here are around the older government buildings. There’s some historical spots and a couple of big art galleries. We walked along the canal and through a few different areas. It felt quite small and easily accessible. It didn’t blow us away but its was definitely worth the stop.

Parliament Hill known as ‘The Hill’ really refers to the whole area closest to downtown Ottawa. It is (obviously) home to the local Parliament buildings and provides many examples of Canada’s love for Gothic architecture and it was pretty impressive to see up close. We didn’t go inside but I believe you can book a tour.

Byward Market is described as a ‘buzzing hub’ in a lot of the travel blogs I read but it wasn’t exactly ‘buzzing’ when we were there. The weather wasn’t the best so what would usually have been a busy outdoor market selling local produce had been whittled down to just two stalls selling maple leaf products. There were indoor shops and stalls considered part of the market. They were worth a look around but mostly sold touristy merch. We sampled a BeaverTail - a Canadian must-have, essentially a flat doughnut (similar texture) that looks a bit like, you guessed it…a beaver’s tail. Ours was covered in sugar, cinammom and lemon YAAAAASS! Result = sugar carb heaven on a cold damp afternoon (see photo evidence below).

We don’t always head to local museums when we travel but the Canadian Museum of Nature wasn’t far so we decided to pop in on our way to lunch. And I am so glad we did. The ‘Butterflies in Flight’ exhibition was AMAZING! We walked into a warm, humid solarium full of tropical plants that’s specifically designed to replicate a typical environment for the types of butterflies found in the space. We were advised to move through slowly and carefully as many of the butterflies were resting on the floor for warmth and at risk of getting squished! It totally freaked me out at first having them flying around but once you get used to it, it was actually a super peaceful environment and so amazing to see them close up. Jack got some beautiful photos too!

We accidentally stumbled upon Eldons one night (Jack literally walked in thinking it was another restaurant we were looking for!) Turns out it was an amazing find! Their menu can change daily and focuses on locally grown and sourced ingredients with a view to have zero food-waste where possible. An example they give is that their pork dish creates a lot of left over broth so, some days they are able to make a delicious split pea soup! We had a delicious meal and some organic wine in their cosy candlelit setting. Highly recommended!

Anthony’s serves up delicious fresh pizza Italian style prepared and baked in their pizza oven while you watch. Nothing fancy but was an easy lunch option close to where we were staying. And cheesy carbs, always a good idea.

Cafe Morala was recommended by our Airbnb host. A cute independent cafe offering a daily changing lunch menu, cakes, teas and (according to an English woman I overheard) “the best coffee in Canada” (!!!) It provided the perfect sanctuary on our last morning when the weather had suddenly turned and I wanted somewhere cosy to do some journalling.